Monitor lizard, Lumphini Park, Bangkok
Some parks have squirrels.
Bangkok parks have dinosaurs.
Ok; miniature dinosaurs.
During my many trips to BKK I paid a few visits to Lumphini Park.
This peaceful paradise within a chaotic urban climate offers city dwellers rest and relaxation. The roughly 140 acre park is green, clean and recessed a bit from busy Bangkok highways.
Runners, walkers and folks desiring to laze the hot, steamy day away seem to be the prime visitors.
But a few tourists seek out a modern day version of Jurassic Park.
RB Goes to Lumphini
Being fascinated with wildlife drew me to this park.
I basically grew up in a glorified zoo with dogs, cats, parrots, rabbits, koi, frogs, hermit crabs and an iguana, at one time or another.
Monitor lizard, Lumphini Park, Bangkok
During one Bangkok trip, Kelli and I gazed upon what appeared to be frogmen in canals around Bangkok.
On further inspection I figured out the frogmen were actually huge, muscular water monitor lizards gliding through the filthy, stinking, festering canals.
The fact that these guys thrive in such inhospitable climates proves their primal, hearty nature. I would never wish my worst enemy to fall into the canal. Hulking monitor lizards grow huge and strong in water that’d make the Smog Monster vomit, turn over and die.
I assumed that the dino-lizards congregated somewhere in town besides the canals and sewer system.
After doing research I discovered that Lumphini Park is pretty much ground zero for the biggest collection of monitor lizards in the city.
Monitor Lizard Madness
Large, imposing-looking but quite serene, the water monitors used to populate the park by the hundreds until the numbers became unmanageable. When I first visited the park back in 2019 I spotted a small handful. My 2023 visit revealed only two; a tiny one in a tree and a 5 foot big boy walking on the outskirts of the park to snag some carrion.
Of course, seeing only two does not suggest that almost all monitor lizards hit the road. Most seem comfortable around humans but tend to find a quiet spot to sleep away the day in a place where the heat index can reach 110 F or higher.
The large monitor lizard I saw seemed to be eyeing one of the many cats in the park but he actually noshed on some dead flesh nestled within a bush.
Monitor lizard, Lumphini Park, Bangkok
Observing 6 foot long lizards casually walking around joggers looks bizarre. The locals could care less. The lizards definitely care less.
Little monitors scamper up trees; being on the bottom rung of the food chain means hustling and hiding to survive.
The big dawgs do not hustle or hide much although the surrounding park and city canal network conceals their presence quite nicely.
Basically guys, you just roam around the paths or take a seat and wait for over-sized lizards to saunter by in reptilian fashion. Some days may be hits and others, misses.
My first trip yielded a good 10 lizards of varying sizes. My second trip produced 2 but the big guy was the largest lizard I had seen there.
He seems small compared to the 10 foot monsters present before many were transported to a local wildlife sanctuary.
I felt bummed because the smallish monitor hid for most of our encounter. I barely saw his head.
Leaving the park a bit glum, my dejected mood changed. The big lizard propelled himself forward well away from the park center. He actually seemed to be heading outside of the park although the surrounding fence, traffic, and general blaring noise would send him back to his urban jungle sanctuary.
I snapped a few shots before heading back to our hotel.
Practical Tips for Visiting the Park
I walked to this park from the Khao San Road area.
I felt like doing the 1 hour 20 minute jaunt but you can easily get mass transit or a Grab to Lumphini.
Drink and bring ample water. Bangkok is hot and stifling with oppressive humidity levels.
Cover up or use sunblock. Minus a few shady spots you will be exposed to the elements.
As for the lizards, give these mini dinosaurs their space. All seem comfortable around humans but wandering too close could trigger a reaction like any sentient being who feels threatened. Be smart; it’s their home, you farang tourist, you.
Conclusion
Give the Lumphini Park lizards a look, guys.
Where else can you get a Jurassic experience in the heart of an urban jungle?
