Imagine a street foody Mos Eisley for backpackers with a mild touch of Sodom and Gomorrah.
That sums up Khao San Road in Bangkok, Thailand.
Kelli and I arrived in Bangkok a few hours ago.
We last visited Thailand in 2019.
BKK begins all Thailand trips for us because both airports serve as hubs. Suvarnabhumi is a flat out center for world travel. Don Mueang is the Thailand hub for our beloved Air Asia. We take international flights into Suvarnabhumi then fly to SE Asia from Don Mueang.
Both keep us in Bangkok for a day or two before traipsing on to the rest of the Land of Smiles.
Backpacker Haven
Khao San Road is a backpackers haven. Rough around the edges if not a little grimy or even filthy in select spots, it is what it is.
Kelli and I no longer do the budget travel thing in penny pinching terms but live humbly and rent accordingly. We are currently staying in a hotel on Khao San Road itself – first time on the actual road – right now for $20 USD a night. Large, spacious, clear and centrally-located, the only possible downside seems negated by nuclear bomb blast walls and effective ear plugs.
I have yet to sleep here – writing these words at 2 AM – but minus the somewhat loud bass in the distance this place checks all the marks.
Bad Rap?
Some dislike Khao San Road.
Others say it gets a bad rap.
Some love the place.
Basically, it is a heavily touristy spot frequented largely by backpackers and merchants pushing their wares onto you.
Good food, all types of clothes and night life abound on this street. It is commerce, through and through, with shock value sprinkled in from the incessant drone of music, persistent hawkers, oppressive heat and humidity and eye-opening marketing ploys.
If you desire an authentic Thai experience this is not the neighborhood for you because the tourist trappings, from persistent touts, to fairly rampant drinking and subsequent rowdiness as well as higher prices are consistent with the hood.
I like Khao San Road for 1-2 days as a “Thailand Recalibration” greeting after being away from here for years. Of course, no where else in the country is quite like Bangkok but the 7-11’s, world class street feed, soi dogs, soi cats, tuk tuks and taxis are most definitely a Thai thing through the land.
As for the drinking, hard sells, higher prices and noisy environment, I am A-OK with it for a day or so until we fly out to our next location.
Hectic Spot
Expect to be a bit overwhelmed by the hectic nature of Khao San Road.
After spending the past two months in London and Prague we feel an invited but strong shock to the senses here.
I ain’t complaining; we booked the place knowing what to expect. Goodness knows that we’ve spent over 2 years in Thailand collectively over a dozen or so trips to the county, during our 12 year world tour.
This is where I was…..ummm…..persistently pursued by two lady boy street walkers who craved Biddulph’s Baht many moons ago.
Things get interesting as one wanders around deep into the Bangkok night in this area.
Should You Visit?
No if you absolutely detest tourist spots heavy with restaurants, hotels and touts. Plus it’s a big-time party street. This is a no-no for many travelers beyond their 20’s. Been there, done that, scenario. (Not for me though. I drink water, juice and tried a Shirley Temple 30 years ago. Alcohol not my thing, nor is partying.)
Yes if you want to experience an intense but interesting spot with excellent food, ease, convenience and….“unique” experiences, for 1-2 days.
I cannot promise that you will be stalked by 2 ladyboys but if you want to see and taste scorpions on a stick, be besieged by 30 smiling touts pushing Laughing Gas on you or perhaps come across the merchants who sell rubber bracelets with outrageous quotes like, “I gave you AIDS” (I am not kidding)Â then this one-of-a-kind experience is for you.
No, not a thrilling, enlightening one of a kind travel experience but a place where you will see hilarious or outrageous stuff – depending on your sense of humor – fueled perhaps by a language barrier but also by cheeky Thai folks clever and bold enough to “go there”.