Kelli and I are wrapping up our trip in Fethiye – Yaniklar, Turkey as of this post publish date.
I am cheating; Fethiye and Yaniklar are two different towns. But both are close enough and 99% of travel bloggers know Fethiye but likely never heard of Yaniklar.
We rented an apartment in the orange groves of Yaniklar. Airbnb said the location was Fethiye. Doing research revealed otherwise. But we preferred to live in the country for a month; rest and relaxation.
This spot is about 200 meters from the well-traveled D400 highway that tracks the west coast of Turkey. But during the current low season one barely hears a peep; another perk to offseason travel.
The size of the apartment surprised us. We expected it to be modest.
Turns out, the 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom floor feels like a small house.
One perk of most international locations we visit is the strength of the USD against local currency. The Turkish lira is no exception. Eating a filling lunch for two costs $9 at our favorite doners (small Turkish restaurants). On a daily basis I enjoy a half or quarter of a 5 lira loaf of bread freshly baked. Every store stocks a bottomless supply of these loaves in large cabinets with clear doors. Locals buy ’em by the dozen sometimes. Can you really go wrong purchasing a large loaf for $0.26?
Month Long Rental
After completing our trip to Kalkan last month it made sense to do a rental close-by before the next house sit. Kelli found this cute rental and we ran with it.
Yaniklar is a 15 minute dolmus ride from wildly popular Fethiye. Everyone and their brother on the traveler circuit knows about this town with its stunning views of both the Mediterranean Sea and surrounding snow-capped peaks. Imagine clear skies, 70 degree temperatures and low humidity. I liken it to spring-time weather in my native Northeast USA.
Every Tuesday and Friday we moseyed into town for market stops. The epic event included repeat vendors. Fruits, veggies, sneakers, clothes and spices popped up row after row. Broccoli, peppers, figs, strawberries, pomegranates and bananas teased the senses.
The kindly Turkish women and men manning stalls quoted a price I decided to pay. I hate haggling. Never mind the fact that paying $5 USD for pounds of produce covering us for 4-5 days seemed like highway robbery as it was.
We visited a local mall but did not catch a movie as we had planned. Most showings in English were too late for us relatively early risers. We also did not want to miss the last dolmus ride back to Yaniklar.
Fethiye canals run clean. Bangkok, it is not. In general, Turkey is a green nation focused on preserving its natural treasures.
The Turquoise Coast is one such treasure. Picture the Mediterranean Sea blending into dramatic, towering, lush mountains north and south. Looking to the west reveals fame snow-covered peaks. In one moment, the Turkish Riviera beckons. But gaze west and it appears to be Switzerland.
Yaniklar
Yaniklar is semi-rural living. No joke; the guard dog makes the biggest racket and even he is quiet most of the time.
This is no tourist town but we did spot expats and the odd tourist wandering around the village. As always in Turkey, the number of Russians compared to Americans seemed comparable to the height difference between Ivan Drago and Rocky.
Per the local expat grapevine, a massive influx of Russians occurred at the outset of the war. Draft dodgers hustled to nearby Turkey as well as rich kids hellbent on exiting stage left.
The resulting influx caused Turkey to change immigration laws concerning Russians but the population seems alive and well here.
Being in the country, Kelli and I purchased bottled water until plowing through one large container daily. After doing research I discovered how tap water here is high in minerals but safe to drink. As of publish date….I am still alive after drinking nearly a gallon a day, some days.
Orange Orgy
The kind homeowner brought us no less than 20 pounds of oranges. She gifted us a few on our arrival, a few more the following week then the money load after a monstrous thunderstorm blew through the area to shake the trees a bit.
When life gives you oranges you buy a rudimentary juicer, use elbow grease and enjoy one cup of freshly squeezed orange juice daily; which is exactly what I did.
She also gave us fresh eggs – free range chickens are afoot – and a sweet and savory Turkish dish. One night we enjoyed a Turkish cake and Kelli’s beloved borek was the other delightful fare.
Hikes are numerous here. No official nature trails dot the area but quiet, sleepy roads made for ideal cardio paths in the country.
Other than coming across a fairly large Turkish Kangal almost all dogs are chained or behind a gate save a few street dogs happy to be members of the free canine folk. This felt like a change up from Kalkan, rich in street dog culture.
The featured image for this post feels like a classic Mediterranean scene. Palm-fringed roads lead to the water with a large resort on the left and a campground to the right.
A gentle stream meanders lazily to the sea, offering soothing sounds as you make your way from the D400 to the water.
Of course, I hiked in every imaginable direction. Last week’s hikes proved interesting as traveling off of the beaten path brought me to beekeepers in action. One shudders in fear when geared up beekeepers agitate bees by the hundreds some 20 meters away. Apparently, my mind training worked. I avoided being stung but not feeling a mild sense of panic as swarms buzzed around me noisily.
Groceries
Three grocery stores were within a 5 minute walk. No trip cost more than $40 USD for a week’s worth of groceries.
Turkish people love sweet treats. I enjoyed a medley of various cookies, cakes and indulged in a Turkish delight a few times.
Most mornings meant Turkish coffee for me. The stout drink starts off as a fine powder patiently boiled to a froth. Add sugar to taste.
Turkish men passed the day at the nearby coffee shop.
Smokes, coffee, tea and games were the order of the day.
Turkish people enjoy smoking. A lot.
House Sitting Break
Believe it or not, this was our first month long apartment rental since 2016 in Istanbul, Turkey.
For the past 7 years our longest rental has been two weeks.
We enjoyed a much needed house sitting break.
As much as we love caring for pets it felt good to sleep in. I also tended more to my blog, business and mindset training during this time frame.
I feel deeply grateful to land the most coveted sits routinely. From Crete, to Kalkan to our next location – to be announced when we arrive next week – Blogging From Paradise got this international trip off with a bang.
Your Turn
Did you ever visit Turkey?
Have you been to Fethiye?
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